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reede, 11. november 2016

115 km to Km Zero, + some more

21.07   Etna-Milo-Giardini-Naxos-Messina-Villa San Giovanni-Scilla. ca. 125km
Selle päeva jooksul sai ikka palju kohti läbi käidud..... ja selle võrra vähem pildistatud.
Kes eelmisest postitusest mäletab, teab, et öö viimased tunnid magasin magusasti bussis, mis päevasel ajal turiste Etnale aitab. Panin äratuskell selliseks ajaks, et ikka koidu ajaks kraatrile jõuaks, kuid mingil põhjusel õnnestus mul veidi sisse magada. Päris päikesetõus jäi nägemata, kuid siiski olin piisavalt varajane, et vältida kontrolle kes valvavad, et juba enam-vähem kraatri lähedal tähistatud kohast edasi ei mindaks..... Tore oli nuusutada väikseid lekkivaid auke maapinnas (tegelikult otseselt auke polnudki) kust väävlilõhnalist auru immitses...... pärast peeglisse vaadates nägin et silmade ümber ning nina juures olid mingid valkjad randid- need olid vist mingid soolad, mis kristalliseerusid sel aal kui mina nuusutasin. Kahjuks ma päris tippude-tippu ei jõudnud, sest vesi oli otsas ning teadsin, et uue doosi saamiseks tuleb 8 km käia, niisiis laskusin. Tervitasin teel varajasi turiste, samas neile kaasa tundes (ei ole lihtne ronida päevases kuumuses.....öine retk tundus hoolimata suurest tuulest mõnusam).

During this day I visited many places..... there was no rush- my scope was to taste some wine of Etna and arrive to Messina. So when I woke up in the bus that I had occupied last night I left my backpack there and ran up to the top to see sunrise. Unfortunately I was a bit late but still it was early enough to enjoy the atmosphere without tourist groups and guards. Was fun to smell the steam rich of sulphur from small reeky spots on the ground (later on when I saw myself from mirror I realized that there was some salt cristallized on my face). I didn't reach to top of the top because I had ran out of water and I alrwady felt some signs of dehydration (some cramps and headache).... it was better to walk back to civilization, saying hello to early tourists who i happend to meet and feeling sorry for them (it was already getting hot and there was no shadow.... 5-6 hours of walking like that in a bigger group will be a bit exhausting. Despite the wind it was more fun at night.
Etna, kagust vaadates. Etna from south-east I guess.
 Jõudsin ikka kuidagi turismibaasi tagasi, tervitasin Massimot ning hakkasin aktiivselt tegelema rehüdratsiooniga. Pooleteist tunni pärast, kui kohvi isu tagasi tuli, sain aru, et kõik on korras ja keha funktsioneerib normaalselt. Bensiin sisse ja allamäge veerema..... jah, see kõlab endalegi liiga täiuslikuna aga nii oli. Valisin veidi kõrvalisema tee, et vältida hullemaid turistilõkse - nii jõudsin väikesesse asulasse nimega Milo (tegelikult ei olnud nii väike... isegi kaardil oli olemas :D), mis pidi olema veinilinn. Perfetto!! Astusin sisse väikesesse kohalikku kraami müüvasse kauplusesse... kes oleks osanud arvata, et seal 2 tundi pläkutan ja poepidajatega veini "maitsen" :D.... varajane apperitivi Etna rosso Nerello ja Etna bianco carricantega. Muide poe omanik teadis kus asub Eesti, nimelt oli ta mõned nädalad viibinud Tartus (enamasti pole lõuna-eurooplastel väga tugevat aimu me kodumaast)..... Lisaks sellele oli ta mu jalgratta nimekaim - Massimo. Aga olgu, tuli siiski kaineks jääda ja edasi sõita, niisiis pidu ei saanud väga pikaks lasta. Tahtsin pärastlõunase siesta ikkagi meres veeta, sest vahepeale oli jäänud juba mitu päeva sisemaal. Peatusingi mingis suvalises rannas Giardini-Naxose lähedal ning kujutasin ette, et olen SPA-s.

Somehow I reached back to refuge. At first I checked out if my bike was still there- it was- and then started to rehydrate. After 1,5 hours I felt the hunger for caffe, which was the sign of being healthy/ok. Back to road, downhill this time (I know it sounds too perfect but that was reality). I took a smaller road to avoid tourists serving villages and I was lucky - not far from Zafferano there was Milo, a town of wine and music. I didn't find so much music, but in a local shop I tasted some good wine: Etna rosso Nerello and Etna bianco carricantega. Almost two hours we had a conversation with the owner Massimo. Hmmmm, good for me that i didn't meet the traffic police on the road after leaving Milo. Next step siesta on the beach (read: in the sea) and then quickly-quickly to Messina.
Somewhere close to Taormina, after my swimming-siesta
Algne plaan oli jääda ööseks Messinasse.... seal aga polnud mõnusat randa magamiseks. Mis siis nüüd? Tahtsin hakata Scilla poole minema, kuid telefon vajas laadimist ning suhtlemisvajadus piinas. Pubi Km Zero jäi tee peal ette, astusin sisse ning mul lubati lahkesti telefoni laadida.....väljapääsu enam polnud, sest kõlas Fabrizio de Andre , seejäärel veel hulganisti mu lemmikartiste ja -lugusid. Kust need tüübid mu play-listi teadsid? Stalkerid sellised!! Eks siis maitsesin ka kohalikku õlut, laadisin akusid, rääkisin baarmenidega, magasin ülemisel pool-korrusel. Umbes kell 3 öösel hakkasin Scilla poole väntama.
Mõnus öine sõit kaljusel rannikul, tõesti romantiline! Scillas läksin otse randa ja keerasin mingisuguse õlgedest tehtud katuse varju magama, kahelt poolt kanuudest ümbritsetud (see oli kanuulaenutusputka), samal ajal vaatega merele ja loomulikult tähistaevale (mitte, et ma enam midagi vaadata oleks viitsinud).

My first plan was to stop for a night in Messina but got there I didn't feel like staying. Where is the port??? In first place the last ferry had already gone, in second as well. Guys in the port recommended to go to the port where most of trucks are going..... it's open almost always. I did.-->Villa san Giovanni, back on the continent. Btw the ticket from Messina to Villa san Giovanni was surprisingly cheap....only 3 euros.
Ok, what to do now? I still remember the caffeteria and police station there (2 years ago we were hitchhiking there with my brother and it was on of my longest waiting, 8 hours approximately). Too tired to go out of Villa, but there was no beach for sleeping.... Of course I went to pub. I didn't imagine, that it's possible to hear so good music in a pub....... one favourite song after another. Pub Km Zero. Sat, slept, recharged the phone, talked and drank beer 3 or 4 hours there. I think to return there soon. Keep going, guys!! It's nice to hear Fabrizio de Andre in a pub :D
At 3 am. I started riding to Scilla, just to find some space for sleeping on the beach. Arrived there, I saw one roof on the beach.... there were walls made of canoes as well, so it was almost an house :D. No thinking anymore! I went into my sleeping back, took a look on the sea and................


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